How To Recover A Wingback Chair

How To Recover A Wingback Chair: A Complete Guide

Is your beloved wingback chair looking tired and worn? Perhaps the fabric is faded, torn, or simply no longer matches your home decor. Recovering a wingback chair can breathe new life into an antique piece or customize a thrift store find. This project allows you to save money compared to buying new furniture. It also lets you express your personal style.

I find immense satisfaction in transforming old items. Recovering a wingback chair offers a rewarding challenge for any DIY enthusiast. You can choose any fabric you love, from luxurious velvet to durable linen. This guide will walk you through each step of the process. We will cover everything from gathering your tools to applying the final trims. By the end, you will have a beautiful, custom chair.

Takeaway

• Gather all tools and materials before starting the project.
• Document each step of disassembly with photos and notes.
• Inspect the chair frame for repairs during deconstruction.
• Use the old fabric pieces as templates for cutting new fabric.
• Work methodically when attaching new fabric, ensuring proper tension.
• Add finishing touches like cording or gimp for a professional look.

To recover a wingback chair, carefully remove the old fabric while documenting each piece. Repair the frame and padding as needed. Use the old fabric as a pattern to cut new material. Then, systematically reattach the new fabric, working from the inside out, ensuring smooth, tight upholstery for a refreshed appearance.

Why Recover Your Wingback Chair? Benefits of DIY Upholstery

Giving your wingback chair a fresh look offers many advantages. First, you extend the life of a cherished piece of furniture. Many old wingback chairs have solid wood frames that last for generations. Throwing out a good frame simply because of worn fabric is a waste. Recovering it is a sustainable choice.

Second, recovering a chair is often more cost-effective than buying new. High-quality new furniture can be expensive. You can save significant money by doing the work yourself. The cost primarily comes from the fabric and basic supplies. This makes it a smart financial decision for many people.

Third, you get to customize your chair exactly how you want it. You pick the fabric, the pattern, and even the type of padding. This allows you to create a piece that perfectly matches your home’s aesthetic. I love choosing unique fabrics that I cannot find in stores. This personal touch makes your home truly yours.

Finally, the process of recovering a chair provides a deeply satisfying experience. You learn new skills and gain confidence in your DIY abilities. Seeing the transformation from worn to wonderful is a great feeling. It is a rewarding project that you can proudly display in your home.

Gathering Your Tools and Materials for Upholstery

Before you begin, gather everything you will need. Having all supplies ready prevents interruptions. You want to make sure you have enough space to work. Lay out a drop cloth to protect your floor.

Essential Tools:

• Staple Gun: An electric or pneumatic staple gun is best for continuous work. A manual one can work but might tire your hand.
• Staple Remover/Tack Puller: This tool is crucial for removing old staples and tacks. A flathead screwdriver can also help but be careful not to damage the wood.
• Pliers: For pulling out stubborn staples or tacks.
• Fabric Scissors: Sharp scissors designed for cutting fabric ensure clean, straight lines.
• Measuring Tape: For accurate measurements of fabric and frame.
• Fabric Chalk or Marker: For marking patterns on your new fabric.
• Seam Ripper: Useful for carefully dismantling old seams.
• Hammer: For removing nails or setting tacks.
• Webbing Stretcher (Optional): Helps to achieve proper tension when replacing webbing.
• Sewing Machine (Optional but recommended): For creating cording, welting, or complex seams. You might need to learn how to sew a chair slipcover for custom elements.

Essential Materials:

• Upholstery Fabric: Measure your chair carefully. A wingback chair typically requires 7-10 yards, depending on pattern repeats and chair size. Always buy a little extra.
• Upholstery Staples: Various lengths, typically 1/2 inch or 3/8 inch.
• Dacron Batting/Polyester Fiberfill: For padding and smoothing out irregularities.
• Foam (if replacing cushions): High-density foam for seats provides good support. You can learn how to make a cushion for a chair if yours needs replacement.
• Upholstery Webbing (if replacing): For seat and back support.
• Muslin or Burlap: Used as an intermediate layer or for internal support.
• Piping Cord/Welting Cord (Optional): For decorative edges.
• Gimp/Decorative Trim (Optional): For covering staple lines.
• Spray Adhesive (Optional): For temporarily holding foam or batting.

I always recommend buying slightly more fabric than you calculate. Mistakes happen, and pattern matching can use extra material. A good quality fabric will make all the difference in the final look and durability.

Deconstructing Your Wingback Chair: The Unveiling Process

Deconstruction is perhaps the most critical step. It is like taking apart a puzzle. You must remember how each piece fits together. This step teaches you about the chair’s construction. It also gives you patterns for your new fabric.

Step-by-Step Deconstruction:

1. Document Everything: Before touching anything, take many photos and videos. Get shots from every angle. Focus on how the fabric wraps around corners and where staples are placed. Note the order in which fabric pieces overlap. I even draw diagrams sometimes.
2. Start from the Bottom/Outside: Upholstery is typically applied from the inside out and then covered by outer layers. Begin removing fabric from the last pieces attached. This often means the bottom dust cover first. Then move to the outer back, outer arms, and outside wings.
3. Carefully Remove Staples and Tacks: Use your staple remover or tack puller. Work slowly and methodically. Try not to rip the old fabric, especially if it will be your pattern. Pull staples straight out to avoid damaging the wood. This can be time-consuming, but patience is key.
4. Label Each Fabric Piece: As you remove each piece of fabric, label it clearly. Write on the back of the fabric: “outer back,” “inner arm,” “seat cushion top,” “left wing,” etc. Note its orientation (e.g., “top edge,” “right side up”). This is vital for accurate cutting later.
5. Examine the Internal Layers: Once the outer fabric is off, you will see the internal batting, foam, and possibly webbing. Assess their condition. If they are compressed, lumpy, or torn, you will need to replace them. This is also the stage where you might find issues similar to those when you reupholster a tub chair.
6. Store Old Fabric Flat: Keep all old fabric pieces flat and organized. These are your precious patterns for the new fabric. I usually fold them neatly and place them in a box or large bag.

This careful deconstruction sets you up for success. It saves you from guessing later. Many DIYers rush this step and regret it. Take your time, and think of it as an archaeological dig.

Repairing and Preparing the Chair Frame

Once the chair is stripped, you get a clear view of its bones. This is your chance to make any necessary repairs. A sturdy frame is essential for a long-lasting upholstered chair. This phase is similar to preparing any chair for reupholstering a rocking chair, where the frame is crucial.

Steps for Frame Repair and Preparation:

1. Inspect the Wood Frame: Look for loose joints, cracks, or broken pieces of wood. Wiggle the legs and arms to check for stability. If anything feels wobbly, it needs attention.
2. Tighten Loose Joints: For loose joints, apply wood glue. Clamp the joints tightly until the glue dries completely. You might need to add corner blocks or reinforcing plates for extra strength. Use wood screws appropriate for the depth of the wood.
3. Repair Cracks/Broken Wood: Small cracks can be filled with wood filler. For larger breaks, you might need to reinforce with a brace or even replace a section of wood. This requires some woodworking skills.
4. Check Springs and Webbing: Test the springs. Do they have good bounce? Are any broken or detached? Replace broken springs. If the webbing is sagging or deteriorated, remove it. Install new webbing in a crisscross pattern, ensuring it is taut. Use a webbing stretcher for best results.
5. Assess Padding and Foam: Check the condition of existing foam and batting. If they are lumpy, hard, or flattened, they need replacement. Cut new high-density foam for the seat cushion base if necessary. Layer Dacron batting over foam to create a smooth, rounded surface. This helps eliminate sharp edges and provides a softer feel.
6. Smooth Rough Surfaces: Sand down any rough spots on the wood frame. Ensure there are no splinters or sharp edges that could tear your new fabric. This also applies to any exposed wood trim. If your chair has wood trim, consider how you might approach similar tasks to how to reupholster a chair with wood trim.

A well-prepared frame ensures your new upholstery will look good and last for years. This foundational work prevents future problems. Do not skip this step, even if the chair seems okay.

Cutting and Attaching New Fabric: The Rebuilding Process

This is where your chair starts to come back to life. You will use your old fabric pieces as templates. Precision here makes all the difference. Remember those photos you took during deconstruction? They are your roadmap.

Cutting the Fabric:

1. Lay Fabric Flat: Spread your new upholstery fabric out on a large, clean surface. Ensure it is smooth and wrinkle-free. Pay attention to the fabric’s nap or pattern direction.
2. Place Old Pieces as Templates: Carefully lay each labeled old fabric piece onto the new fabric. Align them according to the grain or pattern. If your fabric has a pattern, ensure it is centered and flows correctly across pieces, especially on the back and seat. You do not want a crooked design.
3. Cut with Care: Use sharp fabric scissors to cut around the old pieces. Add a 1-2 inch seam allowance around the edges for stapling. This gives you room to pull the fabric taut. If you are doing piping, plan for additional fabric strips.
4. Label New Pieces: As you cut, label the new fabric pieces just as you did the old ones. This prevents confusion later.

Attaching the Fabric (General Order):

The order of attachment usually reverses the deconstruction. You work from the inner parts of the chair outwards.

1. Inner Back: Start with the inner back of the chair. Center the fabric. Begin stapling at the top center, working outwards towards the sides. Pull the fabric taut as you go, ensuring no wrinkles. Staple along the top, then sides, then bottom, leaving excess for trimming.
2. Inner Arms: Next, apply the inner arm pieces. Work from the back of the arm towards the front. Smooth the fabric over any foam or batting. Staple along the edges that will be hidden by other fabric pieces or trim.
3. Seat: The seat section comes next. Place the fabric, center it, and staple along the back edge. Then pull the fabric tightly towards the front, staple, and then do the sides. Ensure the fabric is evenly stretched. If your chair has an attached seat, this might involve techniques for how to upholster the back of a wooden dining chair on a larger scale.
4. Wings: Now, tackle the inner and outer wings. These can be tricky due to their curves. You will likely need to make relief cuts in the fabric to make it lay flat around the curves. Staple the inner wing piece first, then the outer wing. Smooth and pull the fabric evenly.
5. Outer Arms and Outer Back: Finally, attach the outer arm pieces and the large outer back piece. These pieces cover all the staple lines from the inner pieces. Staple neatly along the edges, tucking the raw edges under for a clean finish. Ensure these outer pieces are straight and taut.

Tips for Attaching:

• Work in Sections: Do not staple one entire side at once. Staple a few in the middle, then stretch to the corners, adding staples gradually.
• Pull Taut: Fabric must be pulled very taut to prevent sagging later. However, do not pull so hard that you distort the pattern or tear the fabric.
• Corner Treatment: Corners are challenging. Fold the fabric neatly, creating crisp, clean pleats or folds. Use extra staples here to secure the fabric.
• Trim Excess: Once a section is fully stapled, carefully trim away excess fabric close to the staples, but not so close that the fabric unravels. Leave about 1/4 to 1/2 inch.

This step demands patience and an eye for detail. Do not be afraid to remove staples and readjust if something does not look right. I have done it many times.

Adding Finishing Touches: Piping, Gimp, and Dust Cover

The finishing touches elevate your upholstered chair from good to professional. These details hide staple lines and add a polished look. This is where attention to detail really pays off. If you are new to this, learning how to reupholster a chair with piping is an excellent skill to master.

Piping (Welting/Cording):

Piping creates a crisp, defined edge along seams. It is a signature look for many wingback chairs.

1. Make or Buy Piping: You can make your own piping by covering cording with fabric strips cut on the bias (diagonally) of your chosen upholstery fabric. Use your sewing machine with a zipper foot to sew the fabric around the cord. Alternatively, you can buy pre-made piping.
2. Attach Piping: Align the raw edge of the piping with the staple line you want to cover. Staple it down, ensuring the corded part faces outward. Use small, neat staples close to the cord. This creates a clean break between fabric panels.

Gimp or Decorative Trim:

Gimp is a narrow, decorative trim used to hide staple lines where piping is not suitable.

1. Apply Gimp: Use a strong fabric glue or small decorative tacks (upholstery tacks) to apply gimp along the staple lines. Start at an inconspicuous spot, like the back bottom.
2. Neat Corners: At corners, fold the gimp neatly or miter it for a sharp angle. Secure it firmly so it does not lift over time.

Dust Cover (Bottom Fabric):

The dust cover finishes the underside of the chair. It protects the internal springs and padding from dust and debris.

1. Cut Dust Cover Fabric: Cut a piece of black upholstery dust cover fabric to fit the entire bottom of the chair. Ensure it is large enough to wrap slightly up the sides.
2. Attach Dust Cover: Fold under the raw edges of the dust cover fabric by about half an inch. Staple it neatly around the perimeter of the chair’s underside. Start from one side and work your way around, pulling the fabric taut. This creates a clean, professional finish, even on the part of the chair no one sees.

These steps require patience and a steady hand. I usually play some music and take my time. The result is always worth the effort. Your chair will look like it came from a professional shop.

Maintaining Your Newly Recovered Chair

You have invested time and effort into recovering your wingback chair. Proper care ensures it stays beautiful for years to come. Routine maintenance helps prevent wear and tear. It also keeps your fabric looking fresh.

General Cleaning and Care:

1. Regular Vacuuming: Vacuum your chair weekly or bi-weekly. Use an upholstery attachment to remove dust, crumbs, and pet hair. This prevents dirt from embedding into the fibers.
2. Spot Cleaning: Address spills immediately. Blot, do not rub, with a clean, dry cloth. Use a mild fabric cleaner recommended for your specific fabric type. Always test the cleaner on an inconspicuous area first. Different fabrics need different care. For example, cleaning leather is very different from cleaning fabric. You can learn how to clean fabric chair seats for general guidance.
3. Rotate Cushions (if applicable): If your chair has removable cushions, flip and rotate them regularly. This helps distribute wear evenly. It also prevents permanent indentations.

Protecting Your Fabric:

1. Avoid Direct Sunlight: Prolonged exposure to direct sunlight can fade fabric. Position your chair away from windows or use curtains/blinds to block harsh rays.
2. Pet Protection: If you have pets, consider using throws or slipcovers in high-traffic areas. This protects the main upholstery from claws and fur. It also makes cleaning easier. I find a simple blanket draped over the seat and arms works wonders.
3. Professional Cleaning (Optional): For deep cleaning or stubborn stains, consider hiring a professional upholstery cleaner. They have specialized equipment and knowledge for different fabric types.

By following these simple maintenance tips, your newly recovered wingback chair will remain a stunning focal point in your home. You put so much love into it; now show it a little more.

Frequently Asked Questions

Q1: How much fabric do I need to recover a wingback chair? A1: A standard wingback chair usually requires 7 to 10 yards of upholstery fabric. This amount can vary based on the chair’s size, the fabric’s pattern repeat, and if you are making piping or extra cushions. Always measure carefully and buy a little extra to account for mistakes or pattern matching.

Q2: Can I reupholster a wingback chair without sewing? A2: You can reupholster a wingback chair without a sewing machine for the main body fabric. Most of the fabric is attached with a staple gun. However, if your design includes piping (welting), you will need a sewing machine to create the cording. Alternatively, you can purchase pre-made piping.

Q3: Is recovering a wingback chair a difficult DIY project? A3: Recovering a wingback chair is a moderately challenging DIY project. It requires patience, attention to detail, and basic tool knowledge. Deconstruction, pattern matching, and achieving smooth, taut fabric can be tricky. However, many detailed guides and online resources can help beginners succeed.

Q4: How long does it take to recover a wingback chair? A4: The time required to recover a wingback chair varies. For a first-timer, it can take anywhere from 20 to 40 hours, spread over several days or weekends. Experienced upholsterers can complete the job much faster. The total time depends on the chair’s complexity and your skill level.

Q5: What type of fabric is best for reupholstering a wingback chair? A5: Durable upholstery-grade fabrics are best for a wingback chair. Examples include heavy cottons, linen blends, velvet, chenille, or performance fabrics. Consider the fabric’s rub count (durability), stain resistance, and how it drapes. Choose a fabric that suits your home’s style and your lifestyle.

Q6: Should I replace the foam and padding when recovering? A6: Yes, it is highly recommended to replace old foam and padding when recovering a chair. Old materials often lose their density, sag, or become lumpy over time. Replacing them ensures your newly upholstered chair is comfortable and looks good for many years. New padding also helps the fabric lay smoothly.

Conclusion

Recovering a wingback chair is a rewarding project that transforms an old piece into a cherished focal point. We covered everything from choosing your fabric to mastering the art of deconstruction and reassembly. You learned about the importance of preparing the frame and applying the new fabric with precision. Each step, from the first staple to the final trim, builds towards a stunning outcome.

This DIY endeavor allows for immense personalization. You bring your vision to life, choosing every detail to match your home’s unique aesthetic. The satisfaction of sitting in a chair you have personally restored is unmatched. Take your time, be patient with yourself, and enjoy the process. Your beautifully recovered wingback chair will stand as a testament to your hard work and creativity, ready to offer comfort and style for years to come.